Restaurant review: Kimyona, Riyadh's hidden gem
This is the kind of place only known to those who are in the know…
There’s always something inexplicably intriguing about hidden restaurants. You hear about them through hushed conversations, from a friend of a friend who discovered a new place, or from an influencer who bragged on social media about visiting an untaggable den filled with electrifying music and an eclectic cool crowd.
Riyadh’s vibrant food and beverage scene is constantly bubbling with new ideas, so it’s only natural that creativity spills over and seeps underground, resulting in a spirited speakeasy culture.
So, if you have not yet heard of Kimyona, you’re probably not using social media right. This hot new speakeasy restaurant in town has, in recent months, dominated online chatter, thanks to its unique aesthetics and concept.
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Kimyona is fronted by a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it glass door through the side alley of a narrow parking space located within the King Faisal Centre for Research and Islamic Studies building in Olaya.
Push a button to open the sliding door, and you’ll be greeted by oak wood display shelves lined with black ceramic teapots and black-and-white photography wall art. Hidden behind the otherwise very ordinary-looking wall adorned with an image of two camels is a cosy, dimly lit dining room.
The space stands out for its aesthetic, with a long mocktail bar taking centre stage. Resembling a photographer’s darkroom laboratory, Kimyona features dark interiors, a suspended steel ceiling structure adorned with metal sheets reminiscent of hanging photographs in a darkroom, and glass brick glazing that reduces distractions from the outside.
While Pan-Asian cuisine forms the mainstay of the menu here, there are also off-menu offerings that are only available during lunch hours.
Even more exciting, though, is that the food menu is divided into eight distinct sections, such as Nibbles, Salads, Steamer’s Shop, Crunch Corner, A Trip Out East, Social Supper, Side Kicks, and Before You Say Goodbye, which enables diners to easily navigate through the diverse offerings.
A signature starter of home-baked corn and cheese tapioca bread (SAR35) comes in the form of soft, heavenly pillows served with yuzu butter. Bite into each, and you will be pleasantly surprised by the chewy, unique texture. Is there a surer sign of a good meal than nice pre-starter bread?
To follow, we order chicken truffle dumplings – shumai style (SAR80), crispy eggplants (SAR65), and firecracker cauliflowers (SAR65), which are all standout dishes.
The udon Khao Suey (SAR120) is an intriguing Burmese noodle dish – although we find it lacking in the depth of flavour. It’s first grated with cured egg yolk and then tossed with an array of different contrasting toppings, including crispy shallots, spring onions, and peanuts, before pouring in the creamy broth that seems to cling to the udon. And contrary to the description, it isn’t spicy at all.
However, the katsu chicken curry (SAR100) is a must-try; it comes in a decadent bowl filled with tender, crispy chunks of meat swimming in a thick, rich gravy. We pile the Japanese-style curry atop mountains of garlic fried rice (SAR50), loosening our belts to make room as we scoop up the hearty sauce.
As we move down the menu, thick slices of roasted Peking duck breast (SAR270) served with Kimyona’s roti-inspired pancakes are somewhat disappointing. The gamey roast squab is slightly dry, making the bird difficult to swallow.
We’d advise you to leave some room for dessert, though. We are persuaded by the restaurant manager to share a yuzu cheesecake (SAR70) topped with homemade mixed berry compote. His enthusiasm is justified – it tastes as good as it looks, but it’s the delightfully wobbly matcha-misu (SAR85) that hits the spot for us.
What’s On verdict: This hidden gem in Riyadh exudes privacy and quiet with its nondescript entrance – the perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of city life. But once inside Kimyona, it’s safe to be social with a group of friends. You can laugh, chat, and be convivial. There is no need to keep your volume down. In short, we love this place, and you will, too. It’s so good that we’ve told multiple friends about it since. Even if you aren’t savouring the food menu, which ensures you’re never hungry, ever, the drinks are just as divine. Either way, it’s worth a visit, even if it’s just to say you’ve been here.
Kimyona, Olaya, Street Number 40, King Faisal Foundation, Airline Building, Riyadh 12212, Mon to Sat noon to midnight. Tel: 054 124 4923. @kimyona.sa
Images: Supplied