Restaurant review: Berenjak at VIA Riyadh
Indulge yourself in a Persian feast
After a brief stint, Berenjak is back, this time with a permanent home. Tucked into VIA Riyadh’s polished, high-end promenade, this Persian restaurant feels like a hidden pocket amid the gloss. From the outside, it looks small. Easy to miss. But Berenjak is mightier than it appears.
Here’s what we really thought once we slipped inside.
The spot
A word of advice: keep your eyes peeled. Finding Berenjak, tucked neatly into VIA Riyadh, is half the fun. The newly opened restaurant doesn’t shout for attention. If anything, it quietly blends into its refined surroundings, barely hinting at the buzz within. But that’s part of the charm. Once you clock it, it feels like you’ve discovered something slightly under the radar.
The vibe
Think hole-in-the-wall meets speakeasy, but make it chic. Inside, it’s intimate, dark and romantic. Tables are never empty for long. A few booths and counter seats line the open kitchen near the entrance. Sit there and watch your meal being rotated, flamed, baked, sauced, spiced, and otherwise assembled.
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The front room leads through to a (slightly) larger room at the back, with a small number of tables, two private dining rooms, and a bar. The rustic interiors strike a careful balance: textured tiles, framed prints of Persian art, a rug-covered floor, and flickering candles on each table create that backstreet Tehran feel, but with a more elevated, thoughtfully styled edge that still sits comfortably within VIA Riyadh.
We love that there’s something quietly transportive about it. Once you’re inside, the outside world fades away, and you’re in your own little bubble of grills, chatter, and clinking plates. It’s lively, a little cramped (in a good way), and feels deliberately unpolished compared with its surroundings.
The food
Start dinner with a few mazeh. Between two bread choices, lean toward taftoon (SAR19), a puffed balloon-shaped bread tangy with sourdough and thin enough to rip easily into pieces.
Swipe them through any of three classic dips, all worth ordering:
- kashk-e-bademjoon (SAR45), coal-cooked aubergine, combined with whey into a thick spread and sprinkled with dried mint, walnuts and onions;
- mast-o-khiar (SAR35), yoghurt with diced cucumber, mint and slender green raisins; and
- black truffle olivieh (SAR48), chicken mayo salad with potato, egg, salted cucumbers and sprinkled with black truffle.
They’re just the right amount of indulgence to get things going. And when paired with the taftoon bread, it’s a combination so good that it’s not the worst thing if you end up 70% full from the starters.
When it comes to the mains, especially the kebabs, they don’t quite reach the same highs. While beautifully presented and full of promise, the boneless jujeh chicken breast kabab (SAR98) marinated in saffron, lemon, yoghurt and tomato, and the tikkeh masti beef fillet kabab (SAR175) were a little firmer in texture than expected.
The same could be said of the baghali polow (SAR295), slow-cooked lamb shoulder served alongside a courgette salad – the meat didn’t quite deliver on tenderness. That said, the gravy was a saving grace: rich, comforting, and best enjoyed generously soaked into the tahdig (SAR48), baked saffron rice with crispy khobez.
The Service
Top-notch from the get-go. The team is warm, attentive, and genuinely eager to please, keeping things moving smoothly without ever feeling overbearing. It strikes that nice balance between being present and giving you space to enjoy the meal.
What to order
- Taftoon (SAR19) – This should absolutely be on your table, so get plenty of it.
- Kashk-e-Bademjoon (SAR45) – The star of the show, this dip has melted, pulpy bites of coal-cooked aubergine, mixed with tangy whey, making for an excellent starter.
- Black Truffle Olivieh (SAR48) – The creamy blend of mayonnaise with shredded chicken, crunchy pickles, and black truffle is unapologetically rich.
- Sibzamini (SAR38) – These crispy fried potatoes are absolutely banging. Golden on the outside and fluffy on the inside. The yoghurt dip on the side is the perfect cooling contrast, while the kordi sauce brings a welcome spicy kick.
- Tahdig (SAR48) – Pair everything with the baked saffron rice and crispy khobez for pops of crunch, creating a savoury, textural wonderland.
What’s On the bill
Expect to pay around SAR900-SAR1,000 for three, including drinks.
The final say
What’s On verdict: The mezze is our favourite thing about this place. What Berenjak does really well is presentation – every dish is played up beautifully, and the atmosphere is electric, too. It’s a helpful spot to know about if you’re in the area and need somewhere to linger for a while with a couple of dips.
Location: Berenjak, VIA Riyadh, Al Hada, Riyadh 12912
Timings: Sun to Wed 6pm to midnight, Thurs to Sat 1pm to 1am
Contact: 9200 01819 | @berenjak.ksa
Reservations: Highly recommended. It’s been packed since day one, but you should persevere to secure a table, especially if you’re a Berenjak fan. Bookings can be made here.
Images: Social
